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Bengal Body Shape

  • Longer spine
  • Taller back legs
  • The pelvis being set further back and angled downward.
  • The primordial pouches

In addition, you want to avoid any excess body bulk as a lean body mass is required to survive in the forest’s canopies.  When you bring all of those elements together on one cat, you get the ideal Bengal body – one that replicates the small forest-dwelling wildcats of Asia.

These Blogs are written by Robyn Paterson, with much of the content coming from the mind of Jon Paterson.  We intend to help other Bengal breeders notice and select features distinct to small forest-dwelling wildcats to better the breed together. 

Read More. . .  
Rule of Thirds – The Front Third  
Rule of Thirds – The Middle Third 
Rules of Thirds – The Back Third 

Bengal Nose Set 
Bengal Nose Size 
Bengal Nose Shape 

The Bengal Body 
Selecting the Ideal Body in Bengal Kittens 

Bengal Tail Set

The Bengal Nose Shape


As a Bengal breeder when I am trying to understand a feature on my Bengals, I look to the small forest dwelling wildcats as a futuristic, or extreme, model of what to strive for.  It isn’t likely that the Bengal cat will ever achieve a nose like that of the small forest dwelling wildcats, but understanding their nose gives me direction.  In addition, I find it very helpful to contrast features with ground dwelling cats of the Felis genus as the Felis cats are the root of all domestic cat breeds.  In the collage above, the cats on the top are all Felis cats, both African and European wildcats, and the cats on the bottom are all forest dwelling wildcats; in this collage, they are all Asian Leopard cats.

There are three important aspect of the nose that all work together to create the look of the forest dwelling wildcat nose – size, shape, and set.  For today, I am just going to talk about shape.

The shape of a forest dwelling wildcat’s nose is very distinct from the Felis cats, so this is a great aspect to emulate in the Bengal cat.  To being with, look at the upper edge of the nose of the Asian leopard cats in the bottom row of the collage above.  The small forest dwelling wildcats have a slight heart shape to the top line of the nose.  It does not go straight across like the Felis cats.  

The most important distinction is shape, however, is the lower part of the nose.  While the Felis cats tend to have a straight lower section of the nose that is equal in width or tapers to a point and the bottom edge of the noes.  The Asian Leopard cat, in contrast, has a bottom flair.  The bottom section of their nose flairs out again to offer a larger fleshy surface around the bottom of the nostril.  As a nocturnal hunter, the small forest dwelling cats must utilize their sense of smell to find their prey, and the large fleshy, moist surface helps them use their nose to lead the to a meal.

When looking at your Bengal’s nose, look for two key features of shape –  the top line has a heart shape and the bottom has a flair to the flesh around the nostril.
 

Bengal Nose Size

Above is a collage of a variety of small forest dwelling wildcats that live and hunt at night in the trees of jungles and forests.  What dominant feature of the face stands out on all of them?  That big, huge, puffy nose.

The nose of the Bengal cat will likely never proportionately reach the size of the small forest dwelling wildcats, but it should still be a standout feature on the face.  

The first aspect of nose size to consider is width.  The outside edges of the nose should be in a straight line with the inside edges of the eyes to form two parallel lines.  The nose should not narrow to form a triangle.  Since the eyes on a Bengal should be set on the outside edges of the skull, when everything is placed correctly, this results in a very wide nose.

Next, notice the height of the noses of the wildcats in the collage above.  In most cases the noses are as tall – if not slightly taller – than they are wide.  These are some big noses.  The height is often harder to get on an Bengal cat than the width, so look for height in the nose leather when selecting for noses.

Finally, the absolute must have on a Bengal nose is a puffed nose leather. Most cat breeds have flat nose leather, so the puff of a Bengal’s nose leather is very distinct.  The hair line should start back from the outer most surface of the nose, and the leather should wrap around the upper curve.  If you look at the Ocelot in the center row, right column of the collage, it show the puffy nose leather the best.  When viewing one of these wildcats in profile view, you will notice the nose leather actually puffs out beyond the chin.  If you get a Bengal with correct nose set and nose leather, it will too.

The three key elements to look for in finding a Bengal with the correct nose size are the width, the height, and the puff of the nose leather.  You want the width of the nose to align with the eye to form parallel lines, you want the height of the nose to equal or surpass the width, and you want the puff of the nose leather to make the nose stick out off the face of the cat.

Below is a collage of great Bengal noses which demonstrate that nice size is achievable on the Bengal cat.

Bengal Nose Set

The Bengal Standard doesn’t say anything about where the nose should be set, but a study of small forest dwelling wildcats leads to only one answer –   the nose should set low in between the whisker pads – not above them.  In the collage above, there is a Scottish Wildcat on the left and an Asian Leopard cat on the right.  Notice the whisker pads are below the nose of the Scottish Wildcat.  The nose sits on top of them.  In contrast, the nose of the Asian Leopard cat is set in between the whisker pads – they are positioned to the side of the nose.

One thing to look for in looking for a low set nose is the amount of whisker pad that connects between the bottom of the nose and the lip.  The more space you have here, the higher the nose set is.  Look for noses that have very little connection of the whisker pads beneath them.  

In the collage to the left, you can see how much space there is between the nose and the lip on the Maine Coon on the left and how there is next to no space between the nose and the lip on the Bengal on the right.

Nose set is one of those little details that polishes off the look of the Bengal giving it the essence of a wildcat.  A high set nose can really ruin the “wild” look of a Bengal face – even if it is correct in shape and size.

When it comes to nose set there is only one thing you need to remember – look for a nose that is set LOW between the whisker pads.

Below are Bengals with nice low set noses.

 

Tail Set


For cats who survive on their own hunting ability, the tail is a very important feature – especially for cats who primarily live in trees as they are jumping, climbing, and sometimes free falling in order to get where they need to go.  The tail must function as a counter balance in order to give the cat precision in its movement.  For domesticated cats who get their meals handed to them by their human servants each day, that tail is not quite so important.  Thus, domestication has moved the tail placement of cats since it no longer contributes to the cat’s survival.

Look at the top picture in the collage.  Notice the spine goes straight back to the hips and then instantly to the tail.  If the cat were to stick its tail straight out behind it, there could be one straight line from the back to tail.  This is an example of poor tail placement.  With the tail set so high, it does not provide the correct center of balance to help the cat jump and land with precision.

In contrast look at the bottom picture in the collage.  Notice the tail is placed much lower on the rump.  The spine curves over the hips, then down and at that point the tail begins.  If the cat were to stick its tail straight out, it would not form a straight line with the back; there would be a slight curve downward before the tail begins. This provides a lower center of balance which is what the cat needs for the tail to properly function as a counter balance.

Remember you want the tail set low to provide a lower center of balance.
 

Rule of Thirds – The Middle Third

The middle third of the Rule of Thirds is likely the most difficult section to write about because in the middle third, it is more about what you do NOT want to appear there than what you do want to appear there.  Notice in the picture of the ALC, the eyes are in the first third and the ears are in the last third.  That is exactly as it should be, but it doesn’t leave any obvious facial feature for the middle third.

The Bengal standard states the the head should be longer than it is wide.  I often see people misinterpreting head length with muzzle length.  Only one third of the length of the head should be in the muzzle.  The other two thirds should all be behind the eyes – with one third being from the eye to the ears.

On this middle third, otherwise known as the forehead, you want to try to keep an even sweep to the skull from the nose bridge up over the head and into the back skull.  If you look around at Bengal cat adults, you will often see a change of direction above the eyes as the forehead flattens out.  This is something to avoid when trying to achieve the skull shape of the ALC.  Some Bengals go the the extreme of having a dent in the skull here.  It looks as if someone has taken their thumb and pushed the skull in above the eyes.  This is not desirable.

In order to achieve a nice forehead with proper length (one-third of the skull) and a smooth continuous flow from beneath the eyes back up over the head, one has to start training their eyes on what to look for in little kittens.  If you pick a kitten head that looks like we want it to look as an adult head, you will not achieve enough curvature and length in the middle third section of the head once the kitten matures into an adult.

Instead, look for kitten who has a lot of forehead. Look for kittens whose forehead goes UP from a distance above the eyes and ears.  Kittens who have exaggerated foreheads will develop into adult cats who have the correct, continuous roll over from the nose bridge all the way through to the back skull.  They will not develop a change of direction or the dreaded thumbprint indent on the forehead.

In the collage to the left, you can see three side by side comparisons of the three different Bengal cats as infant kittens and as adults.  Look carefully at the space between the eyes and ears. Notice how, in kittens, the forehead height  is extreme.

Next, look  below at the pictures of the ALC kitten head and the domestic kitten head.  Notice how much more forehead the ALC kitten has above its eyes than the domestic kitten.  In picking out Bengal kittens, look for more forehead.

Working on the middle third of the Bengal skull means keeping the features of the face out of this third of the skull.  You’ve got to keep the eyes in the first third and the ears in the last third which leaves the middle third bare – exactly as it should be.  Next, you’ve got to watch the foreheads of baby kittens. Do not pick the kitten who has a correct adult head as an infant. Pick the kitten with extreme height in the forehead, so that as the kitten grows and develops, it doesn’t develop a change of direction at the brow line, or, worse, the thumb print indent.
 

Rule of Thirds – The Front Third

The first third of on the head of a small forest dwelling wildcat is the most important third of all.  The front third of the head distinguishes this group of cats from all other wildcats on the planet. 

On the left side of the collage above, there are three different species of small wildcats and on the right, the are three different species of larger cats.  The cats on the left all hunt small prey: mice, birds, lizards.  The cats on the right all hunt larger prey.  The lion on top loves zebra and buffalo. The leopard in the middle feasts on gazelle and wildebeast, and the clouded leopard on the bottom enjoys deer, monkey, and pigs. Mother Nature is a beautiful creator, and she has designed the jaw of each cat to be the perfect size for a kill bite on the neck of that cat’s favorite prey.  Look at the cat’s on the right side of the collage – the larger their prey is, the longer their muzzle is to accommodate a wider bite on a larger neck.

The small cats of the jungles don’t need muzzle length.  If they had a longer muzzle, they would be less efficient killers of their prey species; thus, they would eventually die out.  In addition, they are hunting in trees and brush and need to spot their prey beneath the tangled mess of branches and bushes, so their eyes must be low to see beneath everything.  In contrast, a lion, for example, hunts on the grasslands and needs to hide beneath the tall grasses yet be able to look over those grasses without being seen.  The lion needs its eyes up high.  This low placement of the eyes on the small forest-dwelling wildcats gives their faces a unique, wild look as it is different from all other wildcats.

All of this background on prey size and muzzle length leads us to the front third of the Asian Leopard cat’s head.  In profile view, notice the eyes are on the front third of the skull.  If breeders want to emulate the look of the small wildcats, they must select for Bengals who have their eyes on the front third of the skull as well.

Kitten skulls, however, are hard to evaluate.  They change a lot as they grow.  Determining if the eyes are appropriately set can sometimes be more easily done from the front view.

On the left side of the collage of kittens, there are small wildcat kittens – two Asian leopard cats  and one margay.  On the right side of the collage is a lion, leopard, and clouded leopard.  Notice how low the eyes are on the faces of all the small wildcat kittens.  From the front view, more than half the skull is above the eyes.  In the larger cats with longer muzzles, the eyes are much higher on the face.  

To select for Bengal kittens who will end up having their eyes on the front third of the skull, you need to look for eyes that are very low on the face.  Often, the muzzle of a Bengal kitten will elongate down as the kitten grows.  This means they eyes will end up higher on an adult Bengal than they appear on small kittens. 

Read More. . . 
Rule of Thirds – The Front Third
Rule of Thirds – The Middle Third 
Rules of Thirds – The Back Third 

Bengal Nose Set 
Bengal Nose Size 
Bengal Nose Shape 

The Bengal Body 
Selecting the Ideal Body in Bengal Kittens 

Bengal Tail Set

Breaking Domestic Tabby Patterns

The Legs and Feet

Tabby cats have beautiful striping around their legs.  Leopard cats have spots.  When you see Bengals with more spots on their legs than stripes, that Bengal is breaking the domestic tabby pattern. Back leg stripes seem to be a bit easier to break than front legs.  Look at the back legs first and see if there are spots going down the legs.  Front legs are harder – especially from the chest down to the wrist. Finally, check the toes.  Getting spots all the way down to the toes is an exciting accomplishment for any Bengal breeder.  At this point in breed development, having spotted legs is becoming more and more common.  Of the pattern elements discussed in this article, it is the pattern breeders are accomplishing with the most consistency.  It isn’t too hard to find a Bengal with spotted back legs.  Looking to the future, the density of spots in both number and pigment will be exciting factors to consider.

In the top left picture, Alcarinqua Felicitas shows the consistency of spotted back AND front legs is a reality. In the bottom right Solana Ranch What the Deuce shows off his spotted feet, and his daughter CH Solana Ranch Juliet of Primal Bengals breaks up the front legs striping into spots.

The Tail

Tabby cats have ringed tails; Leopard cats have spotted tails with some having a few rings towards the tip of the tail.  When you see Bengals whose tails are breaking apart those rings, you have Bengals that are breaking the domestic tabby pattern.  Be careful not to confuse this with rosetting the tabby pattern.  When the tail ring has two color tones to it, then the breeder has rosetted the domestic tabby pattern, but that tabby pattern is still there.  The first step in breaking the tabby tail is to get a checkerboard pattern.  On a checkerboard patterned tail, the rings are broken and the pattern is staggered from one side to the other.  They still touch in the middle and they aren’t quite spotted yet, but this shows the beginning phase of pulling the rings apart and forming spots.  

Some tails are actually displaying markings that are in the shape of spots instead of rings; this is huge.  It is better than a checkboard pattern.  To get to this point, the breeder not only has to break the tabby pattern but also has to produce a thick enough tail for the spots to display.  If the tail is too thin, the spots merge back together into rings.  Getting a tail that has spot shaped markings on it is a double win.

The last advancement to look for on the tail is tiny spots around the base of the tail.  Some cats will still have the tabby rings, but they also have spots at the base of the tail.  This is a baby step, but a step in the right direction of breaking the domestic tabby pattern on the tail.

In the tail collage, we see tails who are breaking the tabby pattern. Top left are Cheetahsden Catkins Journey and Bangles Spider; Top right is QGC Fraservalley Vega of Jewelspride; Middle is CH Cheetahsden I’m So Catkins; Bottom is Cositoes Captain Casper.

The Tabby M

So often I will read on the Bengal chat boards that if the cat doesn’t have an M on its forehead, it’s not a Bengal.  The wrongness of that makes me cringe. Tabbys have forehead markings that make an M.  Leopard cats have straight tram lines – with the outer tram lines being the darkest. This pattern is extremely difficult to break because not only does one have to get the pattern correct, but one must also produce a cat with enough forehead and top skull along with the correct ear set to get the pattern to display correctly.  That is really hard – which is why you rarely see Bengals with a true Leopard cat tram line pattern, but when you do see it, you want to jump for joy.  O’Maley des Griffes de Feu, pictured below, has a disconnected Tabby M because the inner markings that would form the inner V of the M do not touch the outer tram lines.

Another problem with this pattern is a lack of a clear understanding of the Leopard cat tram lines.  One really has to understand that on the Leopard cat the outside lines are solid, dark in pigment and do not break.  Tabby markings will often come down towards the eyes, then turn inward and the darkest pigmented line becomes the inner V of the M.  The other lines can practically disappear.  This makes some people think they have broken the tabby M, but that is not the case.  To be a Leopard cat pattern, not a domestic tabby pattern, the outside tram lines must be solid, unbroken, and go straight down to just above the eye – they cannot veer inward in the final quarter inch of their trail.

While Leopard cats, technically, display a form of tabby pattern, they do not have striped legs, ringed tails, and only rarely will one have a domestic tabby M on its forehead.  One of the goals of the Bengal breed is to distinguish itself from all other domestic breeds.  The breaking of these traditional domestic tabby patterns, which are revered in some of the other breeds, sets the Bengal apart.  To work on pattern improvement is to break the domestic tabby patterns.

Bengal Ear Cupping and Forward Tilt

These Blogs are written by Robyn Paterson, with much of the content coming from the mind of Jon Paterson.  We intend to help other Bengal breeders notice and select for features that are distinct to small forest-dwelling wildcats to better the breed together. They are best viewed on a desktop.

Bengal Ear Set and Size

These Blogs are written by Robyn Paterson, with much of the content coming from the mind of Jon Paterson.  We intend to help other Bengal breeders notice and select features distinct to small forest-dwelling wildcats to better breed together. They are best viewed on a desktop.  To access all the Blog articles, please click here.

 

Bengal Eyes

The problems with using either oval or almond as the shape for the Bengal eye is that it does not allow for an openness that is needed on a nocturnal eye.  It seems the one thing all Bengal standards agree upon is that the Bengal should have the look of a nocturnal cat.  One of the traits that clearly distinguish a nocturnal cat from diurnal or crepuscular cats is its eyes, so we ought to spend some time getting this description correct.  

While oval and almond aren’t right, round isn’t exactly accurate either.  Of the three, it is likely the closest, but it would be the easy way out when formulating a standard – the description of the very best.  The Bengal has this interesting straight edge to the upper inner eyelid.  In addition, the widest point of the eye should have a slight bias toward the outer edge of the eye.  It is this slight bias that makes the eye look wild, not staring or domestic round. If you look down at the collage of four different tree-dwelling, nocturnal wildcat species, you’ll notice that while their top eyelid shape varies, they all have the lower eyelid that deepens towards the outside of the eye, not directly in the center like a round eye.  When we are looking for ways to distinguish the Bengal from all other breeds and using the nocturnal wildcat for inspiration, it is important to note these slight distinctions in the standard.

I reached out to a friend who is a judge and asked how one would describe the shape of the eye that I would like to see on the Bengal, and she pointed me to the American Curl standard for some ideas.  Bingo, I think they hit it – almost.  

The American Curl describes their eye shape as “Walnut in shape; oval on the top and round on the bottom.  For the Bengal, I would add “with the deepest point slightly biased to the outer edge.”  It seems that using a description that already exists and tweaking it to fit the Bengal would provide the most clarity for judges.

Another aspect that is often included in the description of an eye shape is the proportion of the eye to head size.  Look at the collage of four different tree-dwelling wildcats who are nocturnal hunters. Top left, Leopard cat; top right Marbled cat; bottom left, Margay; bottom right, Oncilla.  On all cats, the eyes are a dominating feature on the face as they should be on a Bengal as well.  So when describing the size, the Bengal eye should be moderately large in proportion to the head.  The allowance already made for jowls on male cats accommodates the difference in proportion between a male and female Bengal cat eye to head size proportion.

Standards need to account for the set of the eyes as well and this is where Bengal standards everywhere have an opportunity to clarify for breeders what a nocturnal set looks like.  It is obvious by looking at the wildcat collage that the eyes of nocturnal cats are set to the outside edges of the face with approximately one eye width between them.  Defining the width by the size of the eye would help Bengal breeders keep everything in the proper proportion.  There seems to be a common understanding that Bengal eyes should be wide apart, but the proportion of width to eye size is off on many Bengals with the width being too wide and the eyes being too small.  Clarifying the proportions could be an asset to kitten selection.  This would also allow for the eye description to help guide the head width to be in accordance to other areas of the standard – particularly where it calls for the head to be longer than it is wide and slightly small in proportion to the body.  It would be nice to start to see the different pieces of the standard working together instead of contradicting one another.
 

Often Bengal standards will call for the eye to not be bugged, which is understandable because no one should breed for structural flaws.  However, a nocturnal eye has a lot of surface area to its lens.  The difference between it and a bugged eye is that the non-bugged eye with a copious surface area is held strongly in place by prominent boning.  We’ve mentioned above that drop in the lower eye line towards the outside edge of the eye.  Look carefully below the lowest point in the lower eyelids on the pictures of the different wildcats, you can see the strength of the bone holding the eye in place so that it isn’t bugged.  Now, look at the image of the dorsal view of two skulls.  The comparison between a domestic cat skull on the top and a Leopard cat skull beneath shows the difference in the bone structure around the eyes.  Notice the Leopard cat’s zygomatic bone sticks out further in the front and sides and is a thicker bone than it is on the domestic cat.  Even the bones holding in the top of the eyes are longer and stronger on the Leopard cat. Selecting for the bone structure of a Leopard cat on the SBT Bengal will give the nocturnal eye that is coveted by Bengal breeders without the fear of the eye having the structural weaknesses of a bugged eye.  It is this strong bone structure that holds the eyes in a forward facing position.

To have the nocturnal look, the Bengal eyes cannot be deeply set into the skull.  The nose bridge should not extend out beyond the eye lens very far.  This coincides with the need for a lot of surface area on the lens of the eye. A nocturnal eye must allow as much light to enter the eyeball as possible.  Furthermore, the bottom of the eye is set further out than it is on the majority of cats making the angle of the eye parallel to the bridge of the nose if the cat has the desired downward turned muzzle that is shown on the Leopard cat in the picture.  Even on cats who don’t have the downward turned muzzle, the eye should sit ever so slightly tilted upward.  For all of this to exist, the Bengal needs the bone structure from the Leopard cat.  If standards start to describe with clarity what a nocturnal eye looks like, breeders will have to start selecting the stronger bone structure.  All choices have a domino effect, and this will have a positive domino effect.

The lens of the Bengal eye should be visible from all sorts of angles – that is what makes the eye nocturnal. In the picture below, look at how you can see the lens of this male Leopard cat’s eye as it protrudes out from the face.  You can see the lens from behind the cat.  Notice, too, on the Bengal kitten how the lens is visible on the far-away side of the nose bridge.  Cats who hunt at night have to capture any of the minimal light they can and they have to be able to pick up light from all different angles.  If we are breeding the look of a nocturnal cat, we need to have a standard description that explains it as such.

It is time to get the description of the Bengal eye clarified by standards in order to help breeders make better selections towards the big picture goal of the Bengal breed which is to breed a domestic cat that emulates the look of a small, nocturnal, tree-dwelling wildcat.  To do so the eye shape, set, and size should be clearly stated. 

Shape: Oval on the top, round on the bottom, with the deepest point slightly biased to the outside. Set: Placed on the outside of the face with one eye width in between, surrounded by prominent boning that holds the eyes at a parallel angle to the nose bridge in profile. Size: Moderately large with a large surface area on the lens.  Strong boning keeps eyes from being bugged.

So the question remains – are Bengal breed section members of any organization interested in clarifying their standard’s eye description?

 

These Bengal eyes from around the world show that the ideal eye is attainable on SBT Bengals.  Pictured from left to right: Katzizi Ylvi at Katzizi Bengals in England; Fraser Valley Nova of Jewelspride at Jewelspride Bengals in Canada; Crestwood Vegas of Coppa at Coppa Bengals in the United States; Batifoleurs Moswen of Moulin Rouge at Moulin Rouge Bengals in France.

How the Forest Shaped the Bengal Ear

For many years, it has appeared as if the top priority of breeders is to achieve small ears. Small ears are not very wild looking when they are triangular. 

Take a look at the half-sisters snuggled up in the cat bed. The cat on the left has small ears, but they are narrow and triangular. The cat on the right has much larger ears overall, but they are, in fact, a step closer to the wild look than the small ears on the left. The ears on the right are wide-based and more rounded at the top. While the ears are much larger on the cat on the right, they are actually a step closer to the wild look based on their shape. In most cases, however, breeders would say the cat on the left has better ears simply because the size is diminutive. If the cat on the right had more forward tilt to hear ears, they would “look” smaller. Forward tilt can actually hide several different weaknesses in the ear – including both size and shape. For those breeders who really feel they struggle with ears, trying to get forward tilt would make the time it takes to correct everything a more bearable process as the ears will “look” better than they actually are. 

In addition to the forward tilt having an impact on the appearance of the size of the ear, where the ears sit on the head has an impact as well. The kitten collaged with the drawing has a fantastic shape, but the ears are too high on the head. If you move the ears down or add more top skulls, the same ears would “look” smaller. Now imagine not only moving the set down a tiny bit but also adding forward tilt; the ears would appear to be diminutive, even though their actual size would not change. 

With the ears being a consistent struggle for breeders, it can be super exciting when you progress forward or see fantastic progress in other catteries. Recently a few cats with over-groomed ears have been doing the social media circuit and receiving a lot of praise. Micheal Turner permitted me to share pictures of his cat with one overgroomed ear. The mother of this cat overgroomed one ear at birth and left the other alone. Over-grooming can leave one with fantastic-looking ears when done on both sides, but when it is done on one side, it makes it much easier to identify.

When kittens are born, less than half of the ear flap is physically detached from the head. This is why newborn ears always look tiny. At this stage, there is very little active blood flow in the ear flap. Damage done to the ear flap at this time can easily go unnoticed due to lack of bleeding. 

Between two and six weeks, the ear flaps fully open which is why ears often grow disproportionately during this time. If the ear is over-groomed early on, the unfused tip of the ear is removed. As the ear flap opens and grows, this stretches the area where the tip was removed which causes the ear to become rounded; in essence, as the ear gets larger, the scar tissue stretches and smooths down as either side of the growing ear is pulling it. This scar tissue is slightly less elastic and flexible than normal ear tissue. This means that any notches or uneven edges caused by the mother gradually smooth out as the scar tissue becomes tighter. Because of scar tissue, the point of removal does not have the fine hair edge you see on the natural rim of the ear. In addition, you will see an unnatural hairline surrounding this over-groomed ear.

Sometimes we see cats where this has happened, and our automatic assumption is that the breeder trimmed the ears because the shape looks so perfect. It is more likely that the mother overgroomed. This cat with one over-groomed ear and one natural ear demonstrates how this round shape results from the scar tissue being stretched as the ear grows; it is not because a breeder trimmed them to perfection equally on both sides.

It would be beneficial if those posting kittens and cats with over-groomed ears would add a disclaimer to their pictures stating they know the ear was over-groomed. Sometimes, the cat being published is a stunning cat worthy of compliments. Yet, the lack of clarity regarding the condition of the ears holds some back from complimenting the cat because they don’t want to be seen as supporting this unnatural ear. When these pictures do not have a disclaimer, it causes confusion for new breeders who may not understand that the ears are not natural. How sad it would be for a new breeder to buy a breeding cat with over-groomed ears while under the impression that the cat would produce those ears. The only realistic hope of that happening would lie in purchasing a female who inherits the overgrooming behavior of the mother. It is not an authentic way to improve ears. 

As breeders, sometimes we have to ask ourselves – what is the goal? Small? Or accurate? The Bengal will naturally go through phases in which the best ears do not appear small to get to the accurate ear. These cats will struggle in the show hall as the show hall, at the moment of publication, favors size over the shape and set. Most Bengal standards describe the size of the ears first. By having the size in the first place position in the description, it sends the message to judges that size is the most important aspect of the ear. Bengal breeders may consider discussing with their breed committees and breed chairs whether reorganizing the ear description could assist in the show hall, encouraging breeders to focus more on the shape and set and less on size. We need to get to the point where judges mention the shape of ears, such as these on Lots Of Spots Rayne Dancer; more often than not, they mention size.  

 

Inbreeding and Linebreeding

The use of inbreeding and linebreeding in pedigree animals is a topic that creates a lot of controversies. Before deciding whether these breeding methods are something you can correctly and safely utilize in your breeding program, there are many factors to consider. This will be a long one, so grab a coffee and get those reading glasses on! Also, I have talked quite a bit about cattle in this article. While we are a group of Bengal enthusiasts, I have over 20 years of experience with cattle genetics, and the information and processes are all transferable. 

What Are Inbreeding & Linebreeding? 

Inbreeding is the pairing of two animals with one or more close blood relatives. There are different levels of inbreeding. 

First degree inbreeding describes a pairing between full siblings or a father to daughter or mother to son pairing. 

Second degree inbreeding describes a pairing between less closely related individuals such as grandparent to grand offspring, aunt to nephew, or uncle to niece (“What do the terms inbreeding and linebreeding mean? – RSPCA Knowledgebase”). 

As the matings move out further from first and second degree inbreeding, you move towards linebreeding. Linebreeding is a form of inbreeding using animals with some shared ancestry but no first or second degree relatives. Having the same cat come up twice in 5 generations still falls within the realms of linebreeding, so it is something to pay attention to on your pedigrees.  

Above left is an F1 hybrid female. She is the great great grandmother of the cat on the right on both sides of the pedigree. While some changes are evident, the F1 still shines through in the face of her great great granddaughter.  

Establishing a Population 

A population is a group of animals that breeds freely with one another in a particular area. In nature, this is a species population. As a population becomes separated from other groups of the same species, it develops adaptations to the specific environment, and these changes can push it towards being a subspecies. A subspecies is a variant from the original species that has some minor genetic changes but is still genetically similar enough to be considered a member of the same species. Over time and with further isolation, a subspecies can develop enough environmental adaptations and genetic mutations to become a separate species. In the wild, this takes a great deal of time and many generations to occur. Sometimes this process is accelerated when a population becomes dramatically isolated, such as when a peninsula becomes separated into an island. At that point, the genetic pool in the population is all that is available to work with. The individuals who are best adapted to the environment raise more offspring; over time, their genetics increase within the population. Related individuals with the same successful genetic adaptations will produce offspring until an identifiable genetic population is established. This causes a high expression of the genes that made the originals better suited. Eventually, these genes are found throughout the entire population. This is natural linebreeding, but in nature, selective pressures such as disease, weather conditions, competition for resources, and predators remove most animals that are not healthy or strong enough to continue the line. 

The picture above shows a leopard cat in the wild – Prionailurus bengalensis. Leopard cats occur over a vast area throughout Asia. Populations have diverged to adapt to the different environments they live in. Until recently there were more than 10 recognized subspecies. More recent genetic analysis has found that there are only 2 mainland subspecies – Prionailurus bengalensis bengalensis and Prionailurus bengalensis euptilura. The leopard cats found on Indonesia’s islands now represent a separate species known as the Sunda leopard cat – Prionailurus javanensis. This shows how a small population that has been separated from the mainland population has genetically diverged to the point of becoming a separate species. 

In a captive situation, we have mimicked the process of developing a population by keeping groups of cats separate and selecting pairings that are put together to establish a type, which develops into a breed over time. Starting with the typical domestic cat, selective breeding has allowed many separate populations to develop into breeds. Some breeds, such as the Norwegian Forest Cat or Maine Coon, are naturally forming breeds. They are domestic cats that adapted to the environmental pressures of their area and developed traits that made them better adapted and different from other domestic cat populations. Each breed has a gene pool with a degree of shared genetic material that allows certain traits to display and make that breed identifiable. While nature pushes animals to adapt to survive and reproduce in their specific environmental conditions, selective breeding in captivity pushes changes that fit the goals of the particular breeding program. 

A breed cannot be formed without some linebreeding. Creating a distinct population that replicates its look from one generation to the next for multiple generations is how we develop a breed. The linebreeding used in the process establishes a recognizable breed gene pool. This breed-specific gene pool is how companies such as Wisdom and Embark can identify different breeds. 

Understanding Homozygosity and Heterozygosity 

Inbreeding and linebreeding are effective in establishing a particular look in a population by increasing the homozygosity of that population. Our genes are located in our chromosomes. We inherit one version of each gene – known as an allele – from each parent. When two copies of the same allele are inherited this is known as being homozygous for that gene. If a different allele is inherited from each parent, then the individual is heterozygous for that gene.  The reason that most complex lifeforms on the planet reproduce sexually is to keep a high level of heterozygosity. Each parent can have variations in the genes they carry for each trait. When paired together, one of these genes is passed from each parent which allows for a different genetic shuffle for each of the offspring. When a population is isolated, there are a limited number of alleles for each trait. In a large wild population, animals tend to have a high degree of heterozygosity. This heterozygosity is healthy for the population as options are available, so if a particular allele becomes associated with a disease, there are still healthy allele variants that can pass on and keep the population healthy and strong. As populations become isolated or closed off, there is an increase in homozygosity. Over time this can be very harmful and lead to a higher susceptibility to illness. However, in some circumstances, especially under natural selection, homozygosity can work, and as long as the healthiest alleles become the established ones, it can strengthen a population. 

An Interesting Case of Natural Selection 

If you ever have the chance to visit Northern England, I highly recommend visiting the Chillingham Wild Cattle at Chillingham Castle. This herd of cattle represents a remarkable survival story that shows that inbreeding can work well when left to natural selection. 

The Chillingham cattle are an ancient type of early domestic cattle that predate modern domestic cattle breeds. Their ancestors roamed wild in the forests of Britain and lived off the land like a wild species. Over 700 years ago, a large group of these cattle were isolated on the grounds of Chillingham Castle, and since that point they have had no genetic addition from outside bloodlines. In 1947, a severely cold winter took a heavy toll on the herd bringing the total number down to just 13 individuals. Of these 13, only 8 were females. Of the five bulls, only one is believed to have been fit enough to continue breeding. While the herd lived wild on the estate, they were provided with hay to support their recovery across the harsh 1947 winter, and that same winter practice has continued to this day. In the herd, only one breeding bull occurs at a time. He will fight for the prime position and then drive the other bulls to the outskirts of the herd. This means that for one or more seasons, most or all calves born were the offspring of one male. The dominant bull that survived the winter of 1947 ended up being the dominant herd bull for three more years. When the dominant bull was overthrown by one of his sons, it meant that most breeding in the herd was between animals that were at least half-siblings. 

The herd now numbers around 100 individuals at Chillingham castle. Genetic analysis of the herd has found them incredibly low in genetic diversity. They are verging on genetic clones, having only minor genetic variations between individuals. The team studying their genetics wanted to look at the genes responsible for disease resistance. They found that the cattle have almost no genetic variation in the areas associated with immune response. Usually, this would increase the mortality rate, but this has not been the case. This could be because the genetic isolation has meant that they have naturally weeded out the most susceptible genes that allow the development of the diseases in the area, or it could be that their isolation from other cattle has protected them from exposure to disease. This is potentially very risky, so to protect the rare genetics of these cattle, a satellite herd was established in Northern Scotland as a safety net. Having a separate group far away from the original population means that if the main herd was to become infected with something in the future and have a mass die-off, there are still individuals out there to bring them back. 

The Chillingham cattle demonstrate that inbreeding can work well if the selective process is natural. The harshness of changing seasons, finding food, surviving predators, and disease all work together to weed out animals that are not genetically suitable to continue the  

lineage. Man-made selection tends to push for physical traits that serve our goals, but nature selects for the best survivors – those that can best adapt to their environment. We must try to mimic nature to get the best out of inbreeding or linebreeding. 

Popular Sire Syndrome 

Popular sire syndrome is a term you may have heard in the past. This is when an individual is deemed of good quality for one reason or another (multiple show-wins, exemplary structure, new and desirable traits, so many of the offspring go into breeding programs. Soon, many offspring are creating their own offspring, and these individuals spread many of the same genes around. Within a few generations, many of these related individuals descended from the original “popular sire” are then bred together, magnifying the original individual’s genes in the population. This seems fine until a case where an unknown and harmful recessive gene mutation is present in the original popular sire, and suddenly the ancestors start putting this together to make homozygous offspring. At this point, babies are born with issues that seem out of the blue, and it can take some time to identify the individual with the original mutated gene that the problem stems from. 

I’m going to talk about cattle again here. The reason for this is that I can share a particular example of popular sire syndrome and the extremely negative effect it can bring. 

In 1977, an Angus bull was born in the US, and was deemed very high quality. Because of his desirable qualities, he was used as an artificial insemination bull. His semen was transported worldwide, and his genetics became established in many herds globally. At the time, nobody knew that he carried a gene for a condition later named Developmental Duplication. This had not been seen before, and it took a while before the effects started to appear. The condition is an autosomal recessive trait. This means that it is not carried on a sex chromosome, so both genders are affected in the same way, and an affected animal must carry two copies of the gene – one from each parent. It took over 15 years for the full impact of this bull’s genetics to show up. A few anomalies appeared over the years, but the real impact showed when a fifth-generation descendant of the original bull became another popular sire in 1990 in Australia. Again, his semen was sent globally, and now the affected gene was able to come in contact with other descendants of the original popular sire. Calves who inherited a copy from each parent were born with an array of defects, the most common being extra limbs on the body in unusual locations. Calves with legs sticking out of their backs or heads, two heads, additional tails, two spines, and many other oddities appeared in abundance. The condition started showing up in herds worldwide at around the same time. A DNA test was eventually developed, and carriers could then be identified. Still, the condition had gone global. Like many recessive conditions in pedigree animals, it is not straightforward or wise to eliminate all carriers as this can risk a genetic bottleneck that increases the risk of other recessive anomalies showing up. Again, it is wise to note that it took over 15 years and five generations for the full impact of the original popular sire’s faulty gene to show up. Even with the shorter maturation time and short gestation period of cats, it could take 5-10 years to see the impact of popular sire syndrome. This demonstrates how dangerous popular sire syndrome is and how quickly linebreeding – even more distant linebreeding – can go wrong and have lasting effects. 

The above image is an Angus calf with Developmental Duplication. This shows the additional limbs that can appear due to having two copies of the affected gene. You can learn more about this condition and see more pictures at – http://www.flockandherd.net.au/cattle/reader/developmental-duplication-angus.html 
Please note that some of the pictures are quite graphic and not something to look at if you are squeamish. 

Inbreeding Depression 

Inbreeding depression is the decrease of vigor seen after a few generations of breeding between close relatives. Inbreeding depression can manifest as a population’s lower offspring survival rate, shorter lifespan, or lower fertility. Individuals can display stunted growth and an overall lack of vitality. This happens due to increased homozygosity across multiple genes within the individual. The animal is less genetically diverse, which exposes harmful recessive alleles, making it more susceptible to illness and environmental conditions. 

Stillbirths can be a sign of inbreeding depression. In the non-pedigree world, stillbirths only make up about 4% of kittens born. ”Generally pedigree cats have higher levels of kitten death than non-pedigrees. In one large study of pedigree cats, around 7% of kittens were still-born” (“Kitten deaths (Fading Kittens)”). With first degree inbreeding, this increases the risk of stillbirths and congenital defects further. The closer the relatives and the more generations of inbreeding used, the higher the risk of birth issues. 

Inbreeding depression can also reduce overall fertility. “In 1982 Wildt et al. compared an inbred group of Foxhounds with a not inbred group and found lower conception rate, smaller litter size as well as smaller number of sperms in the inbred group. Motility of sperms and ejaculate volume as well as volume of the testes also was different between the two groups although failing the significance limit” (Sommerfeld). This effect on fertility has been found across many species and is something to consider when low litter sizes occur repeatedly. 

Genetic Bottleneck 

Also referred to as a population bottleneck, this is when a population experiences a reduction in numbers resulting in a limited amount of genetic diversity within the remaining population. In nature, this happens after natural disasters, or when a disease sweeps through a population, killing off many individuals. In pedigree animals, this often occurs after a genetic condition is found in a section of the breed or when a desirable trait is developed and people bring in animals from that bloodline incorporating them into what they already had, much in the way of popular sire syndrome. Genetic bottlenecks should be avoided wherever possible. We live in a time when genetic testing is available for many health conditions. The primary conditions we can test for in the Bengal breed are Pyruvate Kinase Deficiency and a Bengal-specific form of Progressive Retinal Atrophy. We are lucky that both of these conditions are autosomal recessives so carriers are safe to use in breeding programs if only paired with mates who do not carry the condition. With the testing we have available, it is easy to identify carriers of conditions and plan matings accordingly to avoid producing affected kittens. One of the biggest mistakes we can make when a recessive disease is discovered is to eliminate carriers from the gene pool. Doing so creates a massive genetic bottleneck. The cats carrying one copy of the affected gene also have a variety of other healthy genes that can be inadvertently reduced or eliminated in the process of removing the one specific gene that was intended to be removed. When it comes to autosomal recessive health issues, identifying the carriers and carefully selecting pairings is the best way to move forward while maintaining a healthy and diverse population and avoiding a genetic bottleneck. 

Genetic Drift 

Genetic drift occurs when populations are split for an extended period of time. Genetic drift frequently happens in nature after a genetic bottleneck. Take one larger population and separate it into different groups for many years. There will be genetic drift as some genes from the original population may be lost while others are overrepresented in the new smaller group. This is not something that is selected for, and it happens naturally over time in both wild populations and pedigree breeding programs. 

Imagine a large colony of feral cats as an example to explain genetic drift. All of the cats are brown tabbies and carry for solid black. Their genetics are therefore A/a. When two cats with this genetic lineup breed, statistically speaking, a litter of four should on average produce one kitten who is A/A (brown tabby), two that are A/a (brown tabby carrying solid black), and one that is a/a (solid black). While this is the statistical average to expect from the pairing, any long-term breeder will know that the ratio of these combinations is not always quite what we would hope.  

If you split this large colony into multiple smaller groups, you would expect 75% of the cats to be brown tabby and 25% to be solid black over a period of time. However, the success of some individuals in each population can skew the results. If a solid black male were born in one of the groups and took over as the dominant male, he would pass that gene on to all of his offspring. Within a few years, this would mean a high number of solid black cats would exist in this population. If, on the other hand, a brown tabby A/A male was dominant in another group then he would never be contributing the genes for solid black, and a reduction of this gene would happen in the population. Over multiple generations, genes may be lost entirely or completely take over in a population through this method. This is a basic example of how genetic drift works. 

While genetic drift might seem irrelevant in the overall topic of linebreeding and inbreeding, it is at play all the time in our breed. The effects of genetic drift can be used to our advantage to add in genetic diversity. For decades there have been programs that lean towards more flashy coated cats and programs that lean towards more typey cats. Some breeders try to combine these two looks, bringing genetic diversity. Programs that have selected for coat traits for many generations will have experienced genetic drift in a different direction from programs that have selected for type. While the breed is still the same, there will be considerable genetic drift, and combining these two looks can improve genetic diversity. When looking to bring in genetic diversity, don’t be afraid to step outside your comfort zone and bring in a different look. The genetic health benefits can be very much worthwhile. Just be sure to find a cat with some traits you want in your next generation. Also, be willing to bring in cats from far away from your local area. Certain bloodlines tend to become established in an area, and the same genetics are then in circulation. While some lines are widespread worldwide, some lines are less well represented. As long as the breeders are health testing, these rarer lines, even those with linebreeding within them, are a goldmine of genetic drift that can push your diversity way up. 

Outcrossing 

Outcrossing is the process of breeding to an individual that is not closely related to the main breeding population. Within a breed, this is the selection of an individual from a different lineage but still part of the breed. When inbreeding is chosen as the route of breeding in a program, bringing in another line every two to three generations can reduce the effects of inbreeding depression as they add heterozygosity to the offspring. 

Outcrossing can also be done at a higher level by doing so outside of the breed. This is when a member of a different breed or a non-pedigree animal is brought into a pedigree line. Individuals from other breeds can add even more genetic diversity to a program. However, careful selection must be used to breed back to the desired look as a different breed will not match the desired goals of the original breed in every way. A non-pedigree animal can add even more diversity but again requires careful selection to breed away from undesired traits that are introduced simultaneously. 

On the left are two females from a breed outcross. Their mother is a cross between a Bengal and an Exotic Shorthair. She was bred back to a Bengal male, and the Bengal influence in their offspring is already very visible. 

In the Bengal breed, we also have species outcrossing. This means bringing in genetics from the leopard cat. This adds more diversity again but requires careful selection for desired behavioral traits. 

Whatever form of outcrossing is used, it is wise to plan on keeping genetic diversity high within your program. Higher genetic diversity will increase health and disease resistance. You can test the genetic diversity in your cats by submitting a DNA sample to Wisdom Panel. This allows you to accurately see the genetic diversity in each cat as an individual and how that compares to the average genetic diversity within the breed. 

What Does All Of This Mean For Breeders? 

If you are new to breeding or unsure whether inbreeding or linebreeding is right for you, it is best to avoid doing it. Inbreeding and linebreeding can be incredibly useful tools when used with a focused goal and with lines that have been thoroughly tested, preferably where the common ancestor is older and has had a chance to show any conditions that don’t show up straight away. Breeders with a thorough understanding of the pedigree can make huge strides in their program through linebreeding or inbreeding, but mistakes can happen. With closely related animals, those mistakes can have more significant consequences. Even with experience, you must be aware of the health of any cat you choose to linebreed or inbreed on. You must have an intimate knowledge of the health and structure of this cat, and be aware of any flaws present in that cat, or its close relatives, that would require corrections. 

Heart Health 

As with many pedigree breeds, as well as the non-pedigree cat population, Bengals can develop heart disease. The type we hear about most frequently and that has the most significant impact on our breed is Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy (HCM). HCM is a genetic condition, although the exact mode of inheritance is not fully understood in Bengals yet. It is most likely to be a dominant gene with incomplete penetrance. This means that only one copy of the responsible gene is needed for a Bengal to be affected, but not every cat with the gene will show obvious signs of heart disease. Currently, our only accurate way to identify HCM is through an echocardiogram with a veterinary cardiologist. HCM can develop at any time in a Bengal’s life, but most cases start to show some development between two and six years of age. Some Bengals show changes and even advanced disease before their first birthday, and sometimes late onset individuals don’t show signs until their senior years. 

With the genes for HCM in Bengals not yet identified, we must try our best to identify affected cats through regular heart screening with a veterinary cardiologist. Affected cats should not be bred, and keeping diversity in your breeding program is important. Knowing the heart history of the cats in your program and their close relatives is extremely important. If you do not heart test your cats, PLEASE DO NOT LINEBREED OR INBREED. If you are buying a cat from a cattery that uses linebreeding and inbreeding, ask to see heart reports for both parents. Also, ask to see reports of all four grandparents, and place emphasis on the cat that has been inbred on (for example, if the same male is the grandfather on both sides of the pedigree). The age at which the cats were tested is helpful as cats that are only tested once as young adults (under six years) may not have exhibited any changes yet, but could develop the disease later. Older tested cats give more likelihood of safety, although there is never any certainty. If the breeder you are considering buying from uses linebreeding or inbreeding and does not heart test, please do not take the risk. Explain your reasoning and find another breeder who tests. The age-old phrase “there is no HCM in these lines” is just an excuse to avoid testing. Take it from someone who has fallen for this early on and don’t learn the lesson the hard way. Only an echocardiogram can tell the heart’s health for sure. Just like breeders who breed diverse lines, breeders who choose to breed closely related cats together owe it to the kittens they produce to ensure that they are only pairing the safest and healthiest cats together. 

Pictured above is an inbred male we brought into our program in 2017. He had a male and female pairing in his pedigree that repeated 3 times in 3 generations. We knew there was a risk, but we trusted what the breeder told us. Sadly, when he arrived with us, it was clear that he should not have been sold for breeding. He was cow-hocked and had mild pectus excavatum (the base of the sternum is inverted), prominent pectus carinatum (the top of the sternum protrudes out towards the front), and a very poor immune system. We chose to neuter this boy due to the multitude of structural flaws. It was a blessing in disguise that he had these structural flaws as he was diagnosed with severe HCM at 18 months, and despite being on strong medications, he died of HCM a few weeks before his second birthday. 

HCM Research

HCM research is jumping forward, and two teams are working on identifying genetics that cause HCM in cats. 

One team performing research on HCM in Bengals is led by Kathryn Meurs, DVM, Ph.D. Diplomate ACVIM at North Carolina State Veterinary Hospital. If you have a Bengal that has been diagnosed with HCM, please consider submitting a DNA sample to this study. Submission instructions can be found here –  https://cvm.ncsu.edu/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Genetics-Bengal-Cat-Hypertrophic-Cardiomyopathy-Study.pdf  You can also reach out to me directly with questions.

Thomas Smedley and Jade Raffle lead the other team working on identifying genes for HCM in all cats at the Royal Veterinary College of London. They are interested in pedigree and non-pedigree cats, so if you have a cat of any breed or mix that is affected by HCM, please consider submitting a DNA sample. They would also like samples from cats with a normal echocardiogram at the age of 9 or over. This allows them to compare the genes of cats that are past the high-risk age for developing HCM. Again, this is open to any cats, but if we can get a large number of heart-healthy 9-year-old or older Bengals and HCM positive Bengals, then we stand a good chance of finding at least one gene that may help us move towards a healthier breed. Please contact me at health@tibcs.com for submission instructions. If you are in the US or Canada, I can also send you the sample swabs for submission to this study. 

If we all work together, we can help these teams find the genes that cause HCM in our beautiful breed. Let’s get those samples sent in! 

Works Cited 

“Kitten deaths (Fading Kittens).” International Cat Care, International Cat Care, 20 August 2018, https://icatcare.org/advice/kitten-deaths-fading-kittens/. Accessed 24 July 2022. 

Sommerfeld, Irene. “Infertility and Inbreeding: How Veterinarians Should Tell What Breeders Do Not Want To Hear – WSAVA2006.” VIN, World Small Animal Veterinary Association World Congress, https://www.vin.com/apputil/content/defaultadv1.aspx?pId=11223&meta=generic&catId=31441&id=3859259&ind=238&objTypeID=17. Accessed 24 July 2022. 

“What do the terms inbreeding and linebreeding mean? – RSPCA Knowledgebase.” kb.rspca.org.au, 30 April 2019, https://kb.rspca.org.au/knowledge-base/what-do-the-terms-inbreeding-and-linebreeding-mean/. Accessed 11 June 2022.

The Value of Posting Pedigrees for Bengal Breeders

July 2, 2023
by Robyn Paterson

I recently engaged in an online conversation about posting pedigrees. I always thought it was the done thing that responsible breeders posted their pedigrees, but it is shocking to see how infrequently pedigrees are posted on websites.   I wanted to find out why breeders who I know are acting responsibly in their breeding practices were not posting pedigrees.

These were the top four reasons breeders used for not putting their pedigrees on their websites.
1. They help scammers.
2. They are meaningless because there is no DNA verification or public access to information.
3. Pet customers do not care.
4. Because they are mainly used by breeders, they indicate that you are open to or possibly want breeding sales.
 

There is truth to all of those statements.
 
Despite the reasons listed above, responsible breeders should still be posting their pedigrees, and here is why:
 
To the claims that pet customers don’t care and they are only valuable for breeders​:​ you reap what you sow. Breeders who don’t post pedigrees are less likely to be contacted by pet customers who want to check the pedigrees before buying. Our pedigrees are on our site, and it is not uncommon for a pet buyer to make a statement that indicates they have looked at the pedigree. Breeders may be missing out on potential pet customers who do care about pedigrees simply by not publishing them. We provide a Breeders Assistant pedigree with every kitten. Some customers do not react to it when we go over it, but many do. It is a talking point. We talk about the cats in the pedigree that are ours. We tell their stories, and we also go over the importance of registering their Bengal cat. Just today, a client came into our house and said, “I can’t believe I’m here, and I get to meet the moms and dads and Patience.” Her enthusiasm was heartfelt. Pet customers are your fans; give them a reason to become a fanatic by making the cats real before they ever meet them. Regarding the concern that they will attract breeding sales, put your breeding sale policy on your website. Then there is no question about whether or not you sell breeders.
 
While there is truth to the argument that pedigrees are meaningless without DNA verification of their accuracy, it is not a justifiable reason not to post pedigrees. I hope that one day we will have a registry that will offer DNA verification of registration and public access to information. But we don’t have that now. The system we have is what we have. I understand that it is easy to falsify registrations and incorrectly register cats, but as a pedigree cat breeder, I have to believe in the system, or else there is no point in registering my cats. Our justice systems, regardless of where one lives, are all imperfect. But if we all were to stop believing in our justice systems, then all of society would fall into chaos. Society functions based on a collected belief in something. Believing in these different systems is what makes us human. From the book Sapiens: “Imagined orders enable humans to trust other humans because they believe in the same stories and follow the same rules… . This trust enables humans to cooperate with strangers on a colossal scale, never before seen in history. . . Money is probably the most successful story ever told. . . It has no objective value… but then you have these master storytellers: the big bankers, the finance ministers… and they come, and they tell a very convincing story. ‘Look this piece of paper, it is actually worth 10 bananas’… and it works. Try doing that with a chimpanzee – it won’t work!” Honor-based cat registries are the imagined order the cat world has agreed to operate by. If we do not have a collective agreement to believe in them, pedigrees are meaningless, and we should all stop registering our cats.
 
Some argue that they don’t put pedigrees on websites due to scammers, but the very fact that scammers steal pedigrees supports the idea that pet customers care. If it wasn’t worth the scammers’ time, they wouldn’t do it. It isn’t easy to know how to function in a worldwide market. Humans evolved to interact with about 150 other humans. We interact in a society of billions. Scammers wouldn’t exist in a community of 150 because they could not hide behind anonymity. Still, in a society of billions, they do as they please without ever having to look their victims in the face. When we are violated, it hurts. But as a group of responsible breeders, if we do not normalize pedigrees on our websites, we make it easier for ignorance to grow because we aren’t using them to teach the public the purpose of a pedigree. If more of us don’t post pedigrees, how will the public ever learn to ask about pedigrees?

Everyone who participated in the discussion seemed to agree that pedigrees are essential to purchasing a breeding cat. What makes them more important to a breeder than to an owner? The only thing the owner who does not care about pedigrees lacks is an understanding of why they should care about them. Posting pedigrees is a public display of your choices. Pedigrees should be used to explain how good breeding choices are being made. They are also a public acknowledgment of the work of the breeders of the cats behind the cat. Posting pedigrees of breeders who you respect enough to buy a cat down from their lineage is a way for responsible breeders to support and acknowledge one another.  

Because I live with a super-human husband who has the strange ability to memorize just about anything he ever sees about cats, he knows pedigrees with just a cat name. If Litter of Bengal kittens was posted once the internet, and Jon saw it, he would remember all the information shared and his observations from that post. It doesn’t matter if it was last week or seven years ago. (Yes, I am jealous; I can’t remember how old the kittens are.) He can look at a website with nothing but cat names and say exactly how the cats are related; he can tell you what health issues they are connected to and how much countershading is in the pedigree. That is not normal, but it provides me with a vast knowledge I would not have were he not my husband. He sees sites with no two cats to pair that won’t be a line breed. There are a lot of pet buyers who know enough to steer clear of father-to-daughter, mother-to-son, and brother-to-sister matings. But if that information is not available to them before purchasing the cat, they may end up with a cat that they otherwise wouldn’t have purchased. Responsible breeders can use their pedigrees to show the public that they do not engage in those practices. 

If responsible breeders normalize pedigrees, the public will learn to ask about them if they are not posted. The public will become better educated on what they should start to look for in a pedigree. 

Responsible breeders breed pedigreed cats. It is up to us to value our pedigrees enough to teach the public to value them too.